Just made it out of the Gobi desert, at least to the Chinese border. The roads were pretty terrible, and I am stoked to hit the Chinese superhighways. Walked through 5km of sand after mistakingly following the wrong set of power lines. Had my fullfillment of salty tea, sour cheese curds, and defrosted beef. Said goodbye to my awkward camel friends. And saying goodbye to Mongolia; Bayarlaa, Bayartai! Ni hao, CHINA!
Details: Sainshand to Zamyn Uud
220 KM
I left Sainshand past the Telecom office, southwards, on the paved road. In about 2 km this road arrived at a three way stop, in which I took a right. There is a sign marking KM's to Selenge and Erdene (Ulan Uul). The road is paved for about 60-70 KM. I was able to bypass some Chinese workers who were paving the road as I was riding it. By the end of the year I imagine at least 40 KM more of the road will be paved. When the pavement ends it transitions into a well marked gravel road for the next 80 KM or so. This road DOES NOT lead to Selenge or Ulan Uul. The railway is NOT in sight from the road. At the top of a small pass, some 60 KM from Zamyn Uud, the gravel road stopped, and the classic Mongolian dirt roads began.
These last 60 KM are quite difficult, sandy and corrugated. After reaching the end of the gravel road, I passed under a small set of powerlines, and saw the train line visible to my left, to the east of me. I came to an intersection in which the most beaten track turned westerly, but a small track continued SE (the predominant, correct direction) under the small set of powerlines. I mistakingly followed the small set of powerlines and in 20 KM or so the track deteriorated completely (very sandy). These small powerlines also follows the railway. I then pushed my bike off-track, directly west to meet up again with the main track, which is adjacent to a larger set of powerlines. I followed this all the way into Z.U. which is visible from about 20 KM away.
I am told that you cannot use blogger in China, so I guess this will be the last post, but I've also heard that there are ways around the whole deal so we will see. So until next time..
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Saturday, September 17, 2011
Food Poisoning, On the way to China
Stayed for a few nights in a ger camp, "Gobi Sunrise" on the way to Khamariin Khiid monastery. I got food poisoning, and slept all day which was actually somewhat relaxing. I have never vomited so much. But the stomach is strong now, errr, stronger, and I'm stoked. After resting one day, I headed to Khamariin Khiid monastery and Shambala. It was a holy experience; detoxing via vomit, fasting for a day, and then trecking 40 KM through mostly sand to reach these religious locations. On the way back to the ger camp I met some foreigners who invited me to stay at their ger camp. We danced the night away to Jennifer Lopez, just like her song. As the bacteria exit my stomach, the alcohol seems to entering, hmmm...
This is a silly blog post. I am now headed out of Sainshand for the real deal China. I think it should take me four days to get there.
Until Zamyn Uud,
j
This is a silly blog post. I am now headed out of Sainshand for the real deal China. I think it should take me four days to get there.
Until Zamyn Uud,
j
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Sainshand, sand, sand, sand.
Lots of sand and corrugations and wondering if I am headed in the right direction or not. It is quite amazing that map companies are legally allowed to print a highway running from Choir to this city, Sainshand. The road is composed of a few weaving dirt tracks. Well... they are actually building a highway, called the Millennium Road (wasn't that in 2000? The artist formally known as Prince and champagne?) which I totally missed because, just like the rest of my life, I was riding on the wrong side of the train tracks. It is being built by a Chinese company, so I hear. - I think the Chinese have some interest in Mongolian culture, or people, or maybe they're all philanthropic hearththrobs investing money out of their good will (Mining Operations). -
It was quite fun riding here. Drank some Airag, watched a man play with his removable front tooth, got utterly confused on my whereabouts while taking a picture of a camel. Now I'm in town, thinking of a hot shower, and sleep. Maybe headed out to a monastery, Khamarin Khiid, 100 km out of the city for a few nights off the bike.
Details: Choir - Sainshand
Coming out of Choir the road is paved for 5 KM. Afterwards the road is a conflaguration (word?) of 4WD tracks criss-crossing eachother but generally headed in one direction, North-South. The railway is located on the west side of the main track. I traveled on the east side of a mine at KM 20 or so (from Choir), with the railway tracks on the west side of the mine. The main track then banked west and followed the rails for the next 50 KM or so until departing again at about 10 KM from a town called "Tsomog" on maps, but something else by the locals. Their was a store here selling food and water. The main track then follows the rails tightly for another ~ 50 KM until reaching a town Airag. You bypass another town along the way, Dalanjargalaan, which has shops and water and All That (not the television show for preteens of the 1990's). Airag has a cafe as well as essential amenities. Coming out of the village, I needed to cross to the west side of the train rails. From Choir to this point, the train has been on my west side. If I would give someone advice about this point in the ride, I would say, "You ride on the rail's west side for as short of a distance as possible before crossing back to the east side." I didn't do this, and ended up on a track a far distance from the rails (though I saw some nice camels), and had to make a sharp east turn to find the rails again, which made me lose about an hour of riding. After gaining the rails again, I followed closely on a loose, sandy, corrugated but well perceived track until KM 200 (from Choir). Here there is a railway "Hamlet", a bunch of housing units for workers, with an underpass. It was here where I found out I was living on the "Wrong Side of the Tracks." There was a paved road here, and looking to the North it spanned until the horizon. It is not complete, there are piles of dirt of 1 km on the thing in which you have to get off the road and then re-enter again, and it also doesn't lead directly to Sainshand. Anyways, I got off that, and road next to the rails (now on my west side) until arriving in Sainshand, a relatively large town.
That's it. Going to try to find a camel, and take a break, and debate whether I should hitch the last 200 clicks to the Chinese border just to say that I've hitch-hiked in Mongolia as well as rode my bike. I am sure my pride won't allow me to do it. Until Zaamyn - Uud (Chinese Border town).
It was quite fun riding here. Drank some Airag, watched a man play with his removable front tooth, got utterly confused on my whereabouts while taking a picture of a camel. Now I'm in town, thinking of a hot shower, and sleep. Maybe headed out to a monastery, Khamarin Khiid, 100 km out of the city for a few nights off the bike.
Details: Choir - Sainshand
Coming out of Choir the road is paved for 5 KM. Afterwards the road is a conflaguration (word?) of 4WD tracks criss-crossing eachother but generally headed in one direction, North-South. The railway is located on the west side of the main track. I traveled on the east side of a mine at KM 20 or so (from Choir), with the railway tracks on the west side of the mine. The main track then banked west and followed the rails for the next 50 KM or so until departing again at about 10 KM from a town called "Tsomog" on maps, but something else by the locals. Their was a store here selling food and water. The main track then follows the rails tightly for another ~ 50 KM until reaching a town Airag. You bypass another town along the way, Dalanjargalaan, which has shops and water and All That (not the television show for preteens of the 1990's). Airag has a cafe as well as essential amenities. Coming out of the village, I needed to cross to the west side of the train rails. From Choir to this point, the train has been on my west side. If I would give someone advice about this point in the ride, I would say, "You ride on the rail's west side for as short of a distance as possible before crossing back to the east side." I didn't do this, and ended up on a track a far distance from the rails (though I saw some nice camels), and had to make a sharp east turn to find the rails again, which made me lose about an hour of riding. After gaining the rails again, I followed closely on a loose, sandy, corrugated but well perceived track until KM 200 (from Choir). Here there is a railway "Hamlet", a bunch of housing units for workers, with an underpass. It was here where I found out I was living on the "Wrong Side of the Tracks." There was a paved road here, and looking to the North it spanned until the horizon. It is not complete, there are piles of dirt of 1 km on the thing in which you have to get off the road and then re-enter again, and it also doesn't lead directly to Sainshand. Anyways, I got off that, and road next to the rails (now on my west side) until arriving in Sainshand, a relatively large town.
That's it. Going to try to find a camel, and take a break, and debate whether I should hitch the last 200 clicks to the Chinese border just to say that I've hitch-hiked in Mongolia as well as rode my bike. I am sure my pride won't allow me to do it. Until Zaamyn - Uud (Chinese Border town).
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Govi Desert
Arrived in Choir, the start of the Gobi. The sun is hot, the wind is strong, and I am constantly drying out. This is making up for the years I spent rotting and growing mold in the Northwest. Terelj park was a wonderful break from cycling. I thought it would be too touristy, which it was - but not where I ended up staying. The place was called Eco-Ger-Village or something in that vain. It was owned by a dutchman, who made dutch cheese, and spoke a shouting Mongolian as well as English. Rode a horse and can confidently say that I have galloped. It was amazing, no doubt. Forget a dog, I want a horse. After some good conversation and food shared with two Brit.'s, and two Austrians, I came back on the road, sadly, and headed for China. About 400 km from the border now, where the roads turn to dirt, and the days become longer. I am riding about 50-70 km / day now on tread tires. Carrying 13 liters of water for 100 km. One big town, and three small between Choir and the Chinese border. Excited / Nervous / a little bored.
Details: Ulan Bataar - Choir
225 KM
Route is completely paved, with beautiful, flat scenery. Leaving UB was a bit of a rodeo, but the highway was easily found. KM markers the entire route. You finally get out of UB 15 KM from the city center, then it is another 20 until you arrive in a town named Naliak (or something similar). From Naliak, it is about 60 KM until the village of Bayan. From Bayan, there are no commodities until Choir, about 120 KM away. The wind is strong out of the west, and depending on the day, it rotates southerly or northerly, depending on my Karma.
Details: Ulan Bataar - Choir
225 KM
Route is completely paved, with beautiful, flat scenery. Leaving UB was a bit of a rodeo, but the highway was easily found. KM markers the entire route. You finally get out of UB 15 KM from the city center, then it is another 20 until you arrive in a town named Naliak (or something similar). From Naliak, it is about 60 KM until the village of Bayan. From Bayan, there are no commodities until Choir, about 120 KM away. The wind is strong out of the west, and depending on the day, it rotates southerly or northerly, depending on my Karma.
Monday, September 5, 2011
Ulan Bataaaaar
Arrived in UB 2 days ago. Big sprawling city with ger (yurt) type of slums or suburbs not really sure which. Americano at french owned cafe, speaking with an Israeli about Palestine, sipping kvas on tree lined street - not impossible in this town. International vibe for sure. Headed to Terelj Park for some horse riding / ger camping.
Details: Russian / Mongolian Border - U.B.
350 KM of smooth pavement, actually the best roads I've seen so far. Kilometre markers the entire route. Not too many commodities however. I was carrying up to 10 liters of water for safety, and the biggest distance between supply was about 80 km. Nice hillside camping. The ITM map for Mongolia is not at all accurate and I've since purchased a locally made map, which has correct names for cities.
next ride: from Terelj to Choir city. About 200 KM. We'll see how it goes...
Details: Russian / Mongolian Border - U.B.
350 KM of smooth pavement, actually the best roads I've seen so far. Kilometre markers the entire route. Not too many commodities however. I was carrying up to 10 liters of water for safety, and the biggest distance between supply was about 80 km. Nice hillside camping. The ITM map for Mongolia is not at all accurate and I've since purchased a locally made map, which has correct names for cities.
next ride: from Terelj to Choir city. About 200 KM. We'll see how it goes...
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